Finally, we made it back to New Zealand. Originally planned for the Holiday season, 2020, our return to New Zealand was another casualty of COVID. After nearly two years, though, New Zealand finally opened up to travelers and we were able to use the last of our COVID credits. Our 2020 trip was planned well in advance and scheduled around hiking the Milford Track, billed as “the most beautiful walk in the world”. Stacy and I hiked the Milford in 2002 staying in the Department of Conservation huts and would not dispute the moniker. It is also, however, one of the most popular walks in the world and by the time we had arranged our schedule to return to New Zealand this year there was no chance that the Milford Track would be on our itinerary. We learned that the DOC huts for the entire season sold out in seven minutes this year! Our plan this time, though, was not to stay in the DOC huts. Rather, we were going to splurge on a guided walk with Ultimate Hikes. Here, also, there were very limited options when booking only four or five months ahead. Actually, there was only one: the Routeburn Track over Christmas. Perfect!
We had hiked the Routeburn Track also in 2002 back-to-back with the Milford, which is probably why we had such fond memories of the Milford. We started the Routeburn late in the day after having walked out the last ten miles of the Milford with only a short boat and bus ride as a buffer. Our experience this year started with a three-hour bus ride instead, and this was broken up with a stop for tea in Te Anau after the first two. We were off the bus and on the trail at the Divide earlier and well-rested for the strenuous climb up to Lake Mackensie.
Starting the Routeburn Track at the Divide on December 24, 2022.
In addition to the more civilized start to our trek, the facilities in the Ultimate Hikes lodges were almost luxurious. While the DOC huts provide shelter, a bunk to sleep in, and cooking facilities, our lodges had hot showers, heated rooms with beds to sleep in, excellent meals, and even laundry facilities. We did have to wash our own clothes by hand in a sink, but their drying rooms worked unbelievably well. Our clothes were dry by the time we finished dinner!
The Routeburn Track
Earland Falls
The Harris Saddle
Routeburn Flats