by Jason Bowles | Dec 26, 2022 | Jason, New Zealand
Finally, we made it back to New Zealand. Originally planned for the Holiday season, 2020, our return to New Zealand was another casualty of COVID. After nearly two years, though, New Zealand finally opened up to travelers and we were able to use the last of our COVID credits. Our 2020 trip was planned well in advance and scheduled around hiking the Milford Track, billed as “the most beautiful walk in the world”. Stacy and I hiked the Milford in 2002 staying in the Department of Conservation huts and would not dispute the moniker. It is also, however, one of the most popular walks in the world and by the time we had arranged our schedule to return to New Zealand this year there was no chance that the Milford Track would be on our itinerary. We learned that the DOC huts for the entire season sold out in seven minutes this year! Our plan this time, though, was not to stay in the DOC huts. Rather, we were going to splurge on a guided walk with Ultimate Hikes. Here, also, there were very limited options when booking only four or five months ahead. Actually, there was only one: the Routeburn Track over Christmas. Perfect!
We had hiked the Routeburn Track also in 2002 back-to-back with the Milford, which is probably why we had such fond memories of the Milford. We started the Routeburn late in the day after having walked out the last ten miles of the Milford with only a short boat and bus ride as a buffer. Our experience this year started with a three-hour bus ride instead, and this was broken up with a stop for tea in Te Anau after the first two. We were off the bus and on the trail at the Divide earlier and well-rested for the strenuous climb up to Lake Mackensie.
Starting the Routeburn Track at the Divide on December 24, 2022.
In addition to the more civilized start to our trek, the facilities in the Ultimate Hikes lodges were almost luxurious. While the DOC huts provide shelter, a bunk to sleep in, and cooking facilities, our lodges had hot showers, heated rooms with beds to sleep in, excellent meals, and even laundry facilities. We did have to wash our own clothes by hand in a sink, but their drying rooms worked unbelievably well. Our clothes were dry by the time we finished dinner!
The Routeburn Track
Earland Falls
The Harris Saddle
Routeburn Flats
The Routeburn Track is just as spectacular as the Milford, and Ultimate Hikes made it a very enjoyable experience. This will most definitely be one of our more memorable Christmas holidays.
by Jason Bowles | Jul 13, 2022 | Africa, Jason
Other than flight delays (which are almost the rule now, followed closely by flight cancellations), our journey to South Africa was uneventful. After nearly 23 hours in the air, several hours in various airports, and a few hours stretching our legs along the Thames in London, we arrived in Cape Town. Almost there . . .
We rented a car and drove another two hours to Hermanus, a scenic town known for its whales. We checked into the Aloe Guest House, making this our home for a couple of days. This is a great guest house on the main road through Hermanus, with the center of town easily walkable. John and Lesley were great hosts, always helpful and extremely friendly. Our true destination, though, was Gansbaai, a not-so-scenic town 45 kilometers further around on the other side of the bay, known for its Great White Sharks. As a life-long fan of sharks and an avid watcher of Shark Week every year on the Discovery Channel, Alex was in his element. Gansbaai, Dyer Island, and Shark Alley are featured regularly as this is one of the best places on the planet to see white sharks, and other species as well. Our upcoming safari–the reason for our trip to Africa–will be in Zimbabwe and Botswana. The sole reason for our stop in South Africa was to see white sharks.
Diving with Great Whites is weather-dependant, and 4-meter swells canceled our planned dive the next day. Thus the stay in Hermanus. Most people make a day trip from Cape Town to cage-dive with the sharks: a very long day trip when you include 5 hours of driving time. Adding in the unpredictability of the seas, it could have been two VERY long day trips. Hermanus is a great town with plenty of good restaurants and a spectacular coastal trail called the Cliff Walk. Walking along this path, watching monstrous waves crash against the cliff, we were not nearly as disappointed that our dive had been canceled. We did manage to see white sharks despite the ocean conditions, though.
Hermanus is known for its southern right whales which were just starting to return from Antarctica, but the rough seas were keeping them too far from shore to see from the Cliff Walk. We opted to go flight-seeing as whale-watching boats also were not going out due to the high seas. We made arrangements to fly with African Wings out of the neighboring town, Stanford. The pilot, Dave, was waiting for us at his hanger with a Cessna 182 out front. After quick introductions, Alex, Maile, and I were in the plane, taxiing down a bumpy dirt strip for takeoff. Early in the flight, he took us over Kleinbaai, where the shark operations are and we could see Great White sharks swimming in the bay below us. Next, he flew us out over Shark Alley and Dyer Island. We could see the seal colony that brings in the predators. Cruising out over the bay we saw several southern right whales and one humpback. After 45 minutes in the air, we returned to the airstrip and Dave brought us in for a landing smoother than some commercial flights despite the rutted, uneven terrain of the dirt runway. He did a quick turnaround and took Maile back up with Stacy so she could see the whales. After the flight, we received good news: the weather was expected to improve and the shark boats were going out the following day.
Cage diving with white sharks, Gansbaai, South Africa
The water was a little rough but managable. The water was cold but managable. Unfortunately, the rough seas that precluded diving the day before (and the day before that, it turns out) had reduced visibility to a few feet. For the record, we were in the water with white sharks, but even in the cage you could see them much better from the surface than you could underwater. The shark had to bump the cage right in front of you (which it did for Alex) to really get a good look. Viewing from the boat was actually much better. In addition to four great white sharks, we also saw a large bronze whaler shark. I used a little creative license and Photoshop to create a more impressive memento as the Go Pro footage I have is garbage.
by Jason Bowles | Jul 7, 2022 | England, Jason
Our long-awaited safari is finally underway. Another casualty of COVID and 2020, our trip to Southern Africa is finally underway! Flight delays in Las Vegas shortened what would have been an opportune layover in London, but after 10 hours in the air, we decided to spend the few hours we had in London rather than at Heathrow.
The Heathrow Express makes it easy: 15 minutes from the airport to Paddington station, and then a quick ride on the Tube to get around town. With our shortened layover we had to be selective. Maile recalled that Big Ben was surrounded by scaffolding the last time she was here and thought that would be a great place to start. First stop, Westminister.
Big Ben, without scaffolding
Like last time, we were unable to enter Westminister Abbey (which was already closed for the day). We did walk around it, and around the protesters calling for Boris Johnson to resign. Then back on the Tube to Tower Hill.
The Tower of London and Tower Bridge are quintessential London. Especially with the beautiful weather, we encountered, walking around the Tower and across the Bridge is uniquely London.
The Tower Bridge on a beautiful day in London
Its been a few years since Alex and Maile have been to London
We continued our walk along the Thames, back across the London Bridge, and onto Blackfriar’s Bridge. Blackfriars to Embankment on the Circle Line, transfer to Bakerloo, and back to Paddington Station where the Heathrow Express delivered us back to the airport, and to another delayed flight. Still, can’t complain. Enjoying the comfort of the Virgin Atlantic Club Room with a glass of wine while watching the sun set on an unusually beautiful day in London is a tolerable way to wait for our flight to South Africa.
by Jason Bowles | Apr 9, 2022 | Jason, North America
Happy 16th birthday, Maile! After listening to (and singing along with) the Hamilton soundtrack for years, we decided it was time for her to see the play live on Broadway. This was the impetus for a birthday trip to New York. With Maile in charge, we saw things we wouldn’t have ever seen on our own. like The Color Factory.
Skeptical at first, turns out it was actually a lot of fun.
Of course, we had to go to the Statue of Liberty. The last time we brought our kids to New York I had Maile on my shoulders for most of our time at the Statue.
by Jason Bowles | Mar 20, 2022 | Africa, Jason
One of the best things about the Seychelles is the diversity. In addition to the main island group that is prominent in nearly every beach calendar ever made, there are a multitude of smaller “out islands” to explore. They can be quite different and unique. We chose Desroaches Island, where the Four Seasons has a resort. This small sandy island in no way resembles the green mountains and black granite boulders of Mahe, but it is equally beautiful in different ways. Our beach villa opend up on a pristine sand beach where we enjoyed one of the most spectacular sunsets ever, on our first night!
Our villa was amazing! Right on the beach with kayaks, SUP’s, and 4 bicycles to travel around the island. In addition to the beach, great diving, and the amenities of the Four Seasons, they have giant tortises on the island also.
Giant Aldabra trotise on Desroaches Island
The warm turquoise water of the Indian Ocean is not like any other. The beaches are unreal.
