Usually, we reserve our site for international travel. It is easy to forget that we live in a world-class destination in its own right.
Big Springs, in the Zion Narrows
Zion National Park is less than an hour from home, and this year we made a concerted effort to take advantage. Monsoon rains in July and August were problematic, forcing the cancellation of my only Mystery Canyon permit this year. September was beautiful, though, and we were able to backpack the Zion Narrows and hike the Subway.
The Zion Narrows make a great backpacking trip. An early-morning shuttle to Chamberlain’s Ranch puts you 16 miles from the Temple of Sinawava, following the North Fork of the Virgin River from its origin in the ponderosa pines and cow pastures below Cedar Mountain as it slowly cuts a deep canyon into the red sandstone Zion is famous for. Backpacking allows you to break the hike up into two days. I enjoy moving slower through the canyon and enjoying the time there. The lower canyon, accessible from the park proper, has become so crowded that the backcountry is about the only place where you can get a wilderness experience anymore.
Wall Street, in the Zion Narrows
After spending the night at campsite 11, we could enjoy Wall Street–the most picturesque section of the Narrows between Big Spring and Orderville Canyon–with far fewer people than the more crowded section of the hike between Orderville and the Temple of Sinawava. Quite a few day hikers do make it up as far as Big Spring, but nothing like the crowds you encounter as you near the paved Riverwalk trail that takes you out of the river and to the shuttle stop.
The first time the whole family has hiked the Subway together!
One week later we were able to hike the Left Fork of North Creek, better known as the Subway. Probably the most coveted hike in the park, Subway permits are only available on a lottery basis and have become harder and harder to get as more people are discovering Zion. For years, Maile refused to return to the Subway, recalling the cold swims that turned her off when she was 9 years old. Finally, six years later, the whole family hiked the Subway together for the first time.
It takes about an hour and a half to reach the whale sharks, but the ride is worth it. Unfortunately, it’s not a private experience. Even with a 6:30 am hotel pickup, we weren’t the first boat on the scene. By the time we had arrived, there were already a dozen boats in the area. By the time you reach their feeding area, you can no longer see land in any direction. As you get close, though, the boats all converge on a single spot so if you aren’t first it isn’t hard to locate the whale sharks.
Notice the second whale shark swimming away from the camera at the beginning of the video.
It certainly pales in comparison to swimming with wild dolphins as we did in Rangiroa, but even in an enclosure, dolphins are amazing and it is hard not to enjoy the experience. Dolphin enclosures aren’t cheap and are essentially an opportunity to sell you photos that are even more expensive. You can get great photos, though, so plan on running your credit card.
Extended family trip to Chichen Itza with Flavio again. It has been several years since we were here last, and when questioned, neither of our kids could recall much about the place. Flavio made the trip fun and enjoyable for all, from Grandparents down to the toddlers. I think the kids liked our next stop even better, though. Swimming in the Oxman Cenote was a great way to cool off after a hot day in the ruins.
One of the attractions of Drake Bay is its proximity to Corcovado National Park, on the Osa Penninsula in southwest Costa Rica. More than 20 years ago, Stacy and I backpacked into Corcovado from the south, an arduous journey in the heat and humidity, 20 kilometers from Carate to Sirena station. While hiking from Drake Bay is still a possibility, San Pedrillo station in the north of the park was only a 45-minute boat ride away. In the company of Randall, a local naturalist guide, we were only allowed 3 hours in the park–new COVID regulations.
Looking for wildlife in Corcovado National Park.
Our path took us mostly through the rain forest, but occasionally we would venture out from under the canopy onto the beach which was always nearby. Randall did an excellent job finding plants and animals in the rainforest that eluded Stacy and me when we were on our own, just trying to make it to our destination. In addition to leaf-cutter ants and various mushrooms, he was particularly passionate about bird life. With his spotting scope, he was able to get us in close to numerous birds, including a few scarlet macaws! We also saw numerous tent-making bats, roosting under the large leaves they were able to shape into a natural tent. Unfortunately, the new COVID regulations did not allow us enough time to hike up to a nearby waterfall.
