by Jason Bowles | Dec 28, 2022 | Jason, New Zealand
One of the many highlights around Queenstown that we could not fit in was a typical trip to Milford Sound, which usually takes 12 – 14 hours, most of it on a bus just so you can take a short cruise in the Sound (which is actually a fjord). Instead, we cut out most of the travel time and took a helicopter tour. Unlike most heli-tours where you only see things from above, we spent half a day and enjoyed a more immersive tour of Fjordland. After taking off from Queenstown, our pilot–Renee–angled northwest over the Southern Alps to see the peaks and glaciers. Our first stop was near the top of a mountain so we could hike on the glacier.
The only way to access this remote glacier near a peak in the Southern Alps
On top of the world–on a glacier in the Southern Alps
We dropped off the top of this mountain and followed the Hollysford Valley to the Tasman Sea. Here we landed again and walked on a secluded beach with crashing surf that made it all but inaccessible.
Secluded beach in Fjordland, north of Milford Sound
Flying south down the coast of Fjordland we entered the northernmost fjord as a cruise ship was leaving it–Milford Sound. While not very long, the shear drop from Mitre Peak to the ocean is a staggering 5,521 feet. After the short flight up the sound, a sharp right turn took us past Sandfly Point, up the valley that comprised the latter part of the Milford Track. Sutherland Falls, at 1,904 feet, is spectacular when seen from below, but flying over the top to see Lake Quill feeding it defies description.
Lake Quill, the second hanging lake and the origin of Sutherland Falls.
More amazing, still, was landing thousands of feet above Lake Quill near another hanging lake that feeds Lake Quill and ultimately Sutherland Falls.
First hanging lake, 5,000 feet above the base of Sutherland Falls, Milford Track
Flying over the Southern Alps, heading back to Queenstown.
We stopped a final time on a peak overlooking Glenorchy and Lake Wakatipu where Renee prepared a picnic of local delicacies including smoked salmon, cheeses, fruit, and bread, paired with a glass of Sparkling Marlborough wine. I can’t think of a better way to see Milford Sound and the surrounding area than a flight with Over the Top–The Helicopter Company.
by Jason Bowles | Dec 27, 2022 | Jason, New Zealand
So much to do, so little time. Nowhere is this more true than in New Zealand, and in New Zealand, it is nearly impossible to top the number of activities on offer in Queenstown. If you like the outdoors, this is the place. Adventure? Plenty of that. Adrenaline? This is the capital of the world for that. So why did we only leave one day for Queenstown? Trying to see as much of New Zealand as possible in a short two-week holiday. No time for bungee jumping, jet boating, mountain biking, etc. Still, we managed to use what little time we had to our best advantage.
Riding to the top of Bob’s Peak, Queenstown.
Land luge, Queenstown New Zealand
Alex parasailing over Queenstown
Maile parasailing over Queenstown
by Jason Bowles | Dec 26, 2022 | Jason, New Zealand
Finally, we made it back to New Zealand. Originally planned for the Holiday season, 2020, our return to New Zealand was another casualty of COVID. After nearly two years, though, New Zealand finally opened up to travelers and we were able to use the last of our COVID credits. Our 2020 trip was planned well in advance and scheduled around hiking the Milford Track, billed as “the most beautiful walk in the world”. Stacy and I hiked the Milford in 2002 staying in the Department of Conservation huts and would not dispute the moniker. It is also, however, one of the most popular walks in the world and by the time we had arranged our schedule to return to New Zealand this year there was no chance that the Milford Track would be on our itinerary. We learned that the DOC huts for the entire season sold out in seven minutes this year! Our plan this time, though, was not to stay in the DOC huts. Rather, we were going to splurge on a guided walk with Ultimate Hikes. Here, also, there were very limited options when booking only four or five months ahead. Actually, there was only one: the Routeburn Track over Christmas. Perfect!
We had hiked the Routeburn Track also in 2002 back-to-back with the Milford, which is probably why we had such fond memories of the Milford. We started the Routeburn late in the day after having walked out the last ten miles of the Milford with only a short boat and bus ride as a buffer. Our experience this year started with a three-hour bus ride instead, and this was broken up with a stop for tea in Te Anau after the first two. We were off the bus and on the trail at the Divide earlier and well-rested for the strenuous climb up to Lake Mackensie.
Starting the Routeburn Track at the Divide on December 24, 2022.
In addition to the more civilized start to our trek, the facilities in the Ultimate Hikes lodges were almost luxurious. While the DOC huts provide shelter, a bunk to sleep in, and cooking facilities, our lodges had hot showers, heated rooms with beds to sleep in, excellent meals, and even laundry facilities. We did have to wash our own clothes by hand in a sink, but their drying rooms worked unbelievably well. Our clothes were dry by the time we finished dinner!
The Routeburn Track
Earland Falls
The Harris Saddle
Routeburn Flats
The Routeburn Track is just as spectacular as the Milford, and Ultimate Hikes made it a very enjoyable experience. This will most definitely be one of our more memorable Christmas holidays.
