We arrived at Machu Picchu after completing the Inca Trail.

Spectacular! Arriving late in the day, we missed the crowds. The following day, though, we saw the changes that come with 20 years of increasing tourism: hour-long waits to board the bus, one-way paths, restricted access and a continuous mass of people snaking through the ruins. This made us appreciate hiking the trail even more, as we were able to visit many sites without anyone else around.